By: Suzanne Kamata, JET Program ALT 1988-1990, Tokushima-ken

When I first came to Tokushima almost 19 years ago, I was hoping to find the “real” Japan. Tokyo is, well, Tokyo. Large cities have a character all their own, often made up of many cultures, but I figured there was a kind of purity in the provinces.

Back then, Tokushima was a three-hour ferry ride from Osaka. These days, one can, cross the Pearl Bridge and be here in a couple of hours. Although it may be more accessible, however, Tokushima remains steeped in tradition. Tokushima is a good place to try out traditional Japanese crafts. This prefecture is famous for Otani-yaki, earth-hued pottery, sometimes big enough for a person to fit into. There are a number of places where you can have a go at shaping a pot yourself.

This area is also known for its rich indigo dyes. At one time, indigo was a major crop in the prefecture. Though it has been largely supplanted by chemical dyes, indigo is still produced here. You can either buy professionally dyed products, or experience dying yourself at the Aizome Yakata in (a short bus ride from Tokushima Station). The Awagami Factory in Yamakawa is the place to go for rice paper-making, and in Tokushima City, you can blow glass.

Chances are, if you come to Tokushima, you’re looking to get away from concrete and neon. Lucky for you, this prefecture is blessed with natural beauty. Head to the western mountains to visit the Iya Gorge once considered one of Japan’s ‘three hidden treasures.’ It’s not quite so secret since Alex Kerr wrote his award-winning book, Lost Japan, about restoring a farmhouse here. Kerr and co-owner Mason Florence, author of Lonely Planet’s Japan, have opened Chiiori to visitors. Volunteers are invited periodically to participate in thatch-cutting and roof-making. You can even arrange to stay overnight. Don’t forget to cross the vine bridge at Iya, one of the prefecture’s premier tourist attractions.

While you may be fleeing from the stress of modern urban life, long ago, the Heike clan sought refuge in the Iya area after being defeated by Hikaru Genji and his people. A former samurai house is now a museum devoted to these aristocrats-on-the run. Many of Iya’s current residents are descendants of the Heike clan.

Among them, local artisans run Menme Juku, a folk-arts cooperative, whereby visitors can learn a variety of traditional crafts. Classes are held in the making of straw raincoats, as well as straw sandals, charcoal, tofu and soba. While you’re there, try out the local specialty Hirara-yaki - freshly caught river fish, vegetables and tofu cooked in a ring of miso on a flat stone from the riverbed. This is best enjoyed in a group, and can be arranged by the folks at the Menme Juku.

Sportier types may enjoy white-water rafting on the Yoshino River, or hiking the trails of Tsurugi-san, Shikoku’s second highest mountain at 1955 meters. Further south, the coast is a mecca for surfers. On your way there, stop off in Hiwasa to learn about the giant sea turtles. In summer, you can watch the turtles lay their eggs on the beach. Tokushima is also the birthplace of a number of impressive women, including writer Harumi Setouchi (The End of Summer, Beauty in Disarray). Setouchi went from wild woman to Buddhist nun; you may know her as the bald octogenarian Jakucho Setouchi, responsible for rendering the classic Hikaru Genji into modern Japanese.

Singer-songwriter Angela Aki, daughter of an Italian-American mother and Japanese father was also born here, and continues to draw inspiration from this prefecture. This past New Year’s Eve, she appeared on the annual show “Kohaku” to sing “Home,” which, she declared, refers to Tokushima.

Although like Angela Aki, many of Tokushima’s youth leave for the big city, most return in August for Japan’s largest Obon festival – Awa Odori. The population swells, the streets are filled with dancing and the sound of festival drums and flutes. Anyone can join in, but if you’re planning on participating this year, you’d better make your hotel reservations soon.

After almost two decades here, I’ve come to think that “real” Japan is more about anime and cell phones. It’s nice to know, however, that there are places in this country where the pace is a little slower, the air a little cleaner. Think of Tokushima as the place to go for a bucolic retreat.