One of the most instantly recognizable examples of Japanese architecture is the o-shiro, or castle. Strikingly different from their European counterparts, they have been long admired for their unique blend of military function and aesthetic beauty and have been popular with tourists, Japanese and foreign alike, for centuries. Visiting castles offers a unique insight into Japanese history and culture.
The earliest type of castle in Japan was the yamashiro or mountain castle. These were usually built in secluded and difficult to reach areas. These early castles were mostly made of wood and took advantage of the mountainous terrain to provide defense. However, they could not easily control the surrounding plains or local trade routes. For these areas, hirajiro, or “plains castles” were built. These later castles were built with large stone and tamped earth bases with wood and plaster upper works. The largest castles, usually built in river deltas, became Japan’s government and cultural centers during the Tokugawa era (1600-1868). Osaka, Nagoya, Kumamoto, and even Tokyo (Edo) all grew from small towns into huge cities built around their castles. When, during the Meiji Era (1868-1912), the Imperial capital was moved to Tokyo, the Emperor made Tokyo’s Edo Castle the new Imperial Palace. However, the Meiji Era was to see the end of most of Japan’s other castles. Dozens were destroyed under the “One Province-One Castle” policy, which allowed only one castle to remain in each of Japan’s newly formed prefectures. Of those that survived, many more were destroyed during World War II.
Japan’s most famous surviving original castle is Himeji Castle in Hyogo Prefecture, known as the “Shirasagi” or “White Egret” Castle because of its brilliant white color and its eaves which resemble a bird in flight. Himeji Castle is one of the great architectural symbols of Japan and a must-see attraction for tourists. Other famous original castles are Matsuyama Castle (Matsuyama Prefecture) and Matsumoto Castle (Nagano Prefecture).
Many castles were rebuilt as museums during the 1960’s. In addition to the history of the castle itself, these museums offer insight into the lives of those who lived in and around the castle towns and information on local history. Shimabara Castle in Nagasaki Prefecture, for example, has exhibits on the Shimabara Rebellion (1637-38), Christianity in Japan, the 1991 Unzen volcano eruption, and the work of local artist Kitamura Seibou, who designed the Peace Statue in Nagasaki. Recently, many castles and buildings in their surrounding grounds have been rebuilt using original materials and techniques. Currently, Kumamoto Castle (Kumamoto Prefecture) is undergoing a long term restoration of its grounds, including several turrets, gates, and the ambitious reconstruction of the castle’s main hall.
Other castles, especially smaller ones, have been rebuilt as public spaces. The most common use is as public parks. Planted with cherry trees, they are often the most popular spot in town for hanami (cherry blossom viewing) as well as local festivals. Many former castle sites are now shrines, museums, libraries, and other public buildings. Even large castles have had at least part of their former grounds used for these purposes. Osaka Castle has parks, a shrine, a museum, government offices, and a large sports complex within the area of its original outer walls.
Large castles usually take at least half a day to visit thoroughly and can involve quite a bit of walking. Admission prices are usually less than ¥1000, but this may not include some attractions located within the grounds. There are also often restaurants, souvenir shops, and other vendors within the grounds. Information about special events can often be found from information centers at the local train station or on the city’s website. Weekends are usually the best time to visit, since most special events, such as festivals, will be scheduled then. During hanami season, it is best to come early to reserve a spot since they go fast.
While with the Japan Exchange and Teaching Program from 2002-05, I was fortunate enough to live in Kumamoto Prefecture, home to one of Japan’s greatest castles. Although the tower is a cement reproduction, the other structures are either original or have been rebuilt using traditional techniques. In addition to visiting Kumamoto Castle as often as I could, I also tried to see as many castles as possible while I was in Japan.
I started in Yatsushiro, where I lived and taught. Yatsushiro Castle was dismantled during the Meiji era and rebuilt as a shrine, but the walls and moat are original. This is also the place where Yatsushiro’s Oshogatsu (New Year) and hanami celebrations are held and was my favorite spot for lunch in warm weather. While I was living in Yatsushiro, I was also fortunate enough to witness the discovery of the ruins of Yatsushiro’s original castle. Called Mugishima Castle, it had been destroyed by an earthquake in 1600 and remained buried until it was discovered by a road construction crew.
When I took vacations, I always planned the route to maximize the number of castles I could visit along the way. My longest “castleing” trip was during “Golden Week” 2005. Starting at a bus station in the shadow of Kumamoto castle, I proceeded to visit eight castles in nine days along the inland sea from Osaka to Hiroshima. These castles provided a fascinating trip through Japanese history from the ancient Naniwa Palace on the grounds of Osaka Castle to Nijo Castle, where the Tokugawa Shogunate was disbanded, to Hiroshima Castle, where a radio communications center first broadcast news of the atomic bomb.
Other interesting castles I visited were Shuri Castle in Okinawa Prefecture, which is built in the Ryukyu style, and Edo Castle in Tokyo, now the Imperial Palace. In all, I visited over thirty castles while traveling in Japan, no two of them exactly alike. Of all the castles I visited, however, my favorite has to be Himeji. Even though it rained both times I went there, the castle still radiated a serene beauty that is hard to describe to those who have not seen it.
There are many publications in Japan specializing in castles and castle-related travel available at local bookshops. Some good English websites for the castle fan are www.jcastle.info and www.shirofan.com/english.html. Stephen Turnbull’s Japanese Castles 1540-1640 (Osprey, 2003) is an excellent look at castle development and use.
